Amid the glow of candles and the serene melody of organ music, hundreds of Catholics gathered for a subdued Christmas Eve mass in Aceh, Indonesia’s sole province governed by strict Islamic Sharia law. This unique setting is part of the world’s largest Muslim-majority nation, where Aceh stands out for its conservative practices.
In Aceh, Christmas decorations are notably absent from public spaces due to regulations under Sharia law, which also prescribes punishments like public flogging. Despite these restrictions, the province is home to a small Catholic community of around 6,000 people among its predominantly Muslim population.
At the Sacred Heart Catholic Church in Banda Aceh, a historic structure nearing its centennial and the only Catholic church in the provincial capital, approximately 500 worshippers participated in the Christmas service on Tuesday evening.
“I’ve never faced any difficulties with followers of other religions here. The level of religious tolerance is truly remarkable,” said Father Agustinus Padang, the church’s pastor, in an interview.
A Complex Landscape of Faith and Tolerance
Aceh’s enforcement of Sharia law has drawn criticism from human rights organizations for moral punishments, including public canings for acts like alleged adultery. However, non-Muslims are exempt from such penalties under the province’s special autonomy. Catholicism remains one of Indonesia’s six officially recognized religions, allowing Catholics in Aceh to practice their faith despite being a minority.
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Positioned near the city’s grand mosque, the Sacred Heart church is devoid of external Christmas decorations, reflecting a community that values understated celebrations. Security around the church was heightened with the presence of police and soldiers, a precaution influenced by past attacks on Christians in the country.
Inside the church, however, the festive spirit was alive. Worshippers decorated a tall Christmas tree, lit up the space with fairy lights, and sang the Indonesian rendition of “Holy Night,” while the Islamic call to prayer echoed in the background.
Harmony in Diversity
Church administrator Baron Ferryson Pandiangan explained that the Catholic community in Banda Aceh prioritizes self-reflection over grand celebrations. Christmas decorations are only displayed 24 hours before the festivities begin.
“Despite living under Islamic Sharia law, Catholics in Banda Aceh coexist peacefully with followers of other religions. It doesn’t hinder us at all,” Pandiangan said.
While challenges persist for religious minorities in the region, Aceh’s Catholics have found ways to thrive. The province has 19 Catholic churches compared to over 180 Protestant churches. Many believers credit a spirit of unity forged in part by shared tragedies, such as the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami, which claimed 60,000 lives in Banda Aceh alone.
The Sacred Heart church was also affected by the tsunami, with its walls damaged and the interior submerged in mud. Each year on December 26, the community gathers to honor the memory of the disaster’s victims, reaffirming their resilience and faith.
A Safe Haven
Despite initial apprehensions, some Catholics have found comfort in Aceh’s unique environment. Lisbetty Purba, a 35-year-old housewife who moved to Banda Aceh from North Sumatra four years ago, recalled her initial concerns about living under Sharia law. However, her fears dissipated as she built connections with her kind and supportive neighbors.
“I’ve grown to love living here,” she shared. “The key is open communication and a willingness to share.”
For Catholics in Aceh, Christmas may lack the outward festivity seen elsewhere, but the joy and spiritual solace within the walls of their cherished church remain unwavering.